Saturday 31 January 2015

Red Red Wine

Checking my emails, I spot one written in French from someone called 张大, claiming to be “votre amie cordialement”. As a result of my tendency to hand out my infos to any Chinese who asks for them, I lose track of new contacts, so I believe her. Their indistinguishable names don’t exactly help either. Anyway, she is inviting me to a French wine-imports company celebration, so being the untroubled free-wheeling Westerner that I am, I go along to this stranger’s alcohol-fuelled orgy.

I turn up to the stated venue an hour late, de rigeur. It’s held in a fancy hotel in the middle of a grey park, which, like Brighton, probably verges on pretty in the summertime. Apart from two ornamental Ukrainians employed by a White People-hiring agency, I am the only non-Chinese. I mill about like a loose grain of rice, and although I drink down any glass that is handed to me, my brain unfortunately continues to function. So I try one of the ice-breaking games; a sort of wine-connoisseur poker with related prizes that no one will ever win. I lose, obviously: after guessing correctly that the wine is French, I can’t pinpoint its fruity notes or estimate its relatively cheap price. Even after a year in France I’m still a wine derp.

I mosey over to check out the calligraphy guy. He’s swiping his big inky brush around with the same deftness as Ainsley Harriot with a meat cleaver. He doesn’t say a lot, but that’s the thing with wise grey men in China: the less you say, the wiser you look. He hands me a toddler brush, motions vaguely at the paper and I write my name in Chinese. He looks vastly confused, because I’ve written something that sounds like Sally, but most likely translates as “Withered Plum”. Disdained that I have offended his brush and culture in this way, he lights a fag and I leave him forever.

A few brave souls dare to approach me to add me on WeChat and/or give me their card and just as I start to get crabby about the overload of people talking to me but not TALKING to me, 张大 comes over and warmly shakes my hand, saying how happy he is I’m there. I suddenly remember my “amie” (turns out he’s male) as one of the many who have accosted me on the aeroplane when the family abandon me in economy class. He leads me into the grand supper hall to the table of the spare WAGs, most of who are super friendly but overdo the compliments to the point of supplementary unease on my part. Then the show begins.

There’s hosts and everything. Not that I’d know, but it’s what I’d imagine watching the X Factor is like, with nostalgic background videos and heartrending picture slideshows and a lucky draw for an enormous air purifier which is outrageously won by a woman who puts ammonia in her hair. Finally after about an hour of this fecund gala, the nosh begins to be brought out and there is an attractive man sitting next to me who speaks fluent English and French. Maybe the wine is finally kicking in, but I’m rather starting to enjoy myself.

I indulge in such unsexy greediness that the sexy man remarks on how hungry I must be. Across the table, the other laydeez have had so much to drink and so little to eat that one of them is in a coma and vomiting on herself. She falls on the floor and other drunkards try to help her up, creating a lovely pile of plastered wealthy Asians. There’s too much food and too much wine; most of what’s on the table is left untouched and the number of obligatory toasts and glass clinking is just getting ridiculous. 

Eventually张大brings his bloated pink face veering towards me, to let me know that I am a queen who speaks many languages. I want to escape on a rocket but another woman tells me we live on the same golf course so she can give me a lift home. Initially delighted at not having to rush off early for the bus, I sit there and wait for her. And wait. People begin to leave. I wait.

On the banquet tables amidst the weeping mothers and jewel encrusted daddies lies the luxurious waste of China’s new Baroque: unopened crab appendages, rapidly browning kumquats, half-smoked cigars and rare steaks whose blood is beginning to clot. Go outside and you’ll see grannies sweeping the streets for pennies to fund their son’s son’s education, sustaining on rice porridge and corn milk. With this in mind, I make friends with the grand piano as I await my ride home and provide a shitty theme for the imaginary rolling credits.

Thanks 张大, you really opened my proverbial eyes. I wish I could do the same for you.

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